It’s the island of pink and green. And you can’t miss blue–in so many shades that they have to be seen to believed–and the blazing reds and yellows of the flowering trees.
Bermuda, the tiny island smack dab in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, wasn’t on a lot of cruise itineraries for years because the authorities set strict limits on the size and number of cruise ships arriving. Now with more docks around the island and better organization of tours, the island sees a flotilla of ships weekly. It’s easy to see in a day, but it has enough going on that you could easily enjoy spending a week there.
A lot is changing on the classic redoubt of tradition. If you haven’t been or haven’t been recently, here are some things to know:
1) What ever happened to Bermuda shorts?
The mid-length pants worn with the knee socks that were considered staples of business and evening attire in decades past seem to have all but disappeared by day around the capital of Hamilton, replaced by polo shirts and slacks. Bermudas still make an appearance in the evenings. Some of the formal restaurants and nightclubs in Bermuda require men to wear a coat and tie, that often get paired with Bermuda shorts. The stores in Hamilton show some dapper jackets in green or pink, if you want to be really authentic.
2) Scooters are an endangered species
Strange as it may sound, car rentals are not allowed on the island, by Government decree. If you live here, you can own a car but for tourists taxis are the norm to prevent traffic jams in peak seasons. For decades, the only personal transportation options for tourists were rented mopeds. From experience, there’s a significant risk of “road rash” from mishaps while piloting an unfamiliar scooter on the left side of narrow roads.
But Bermuda’s legislature recently approved a law permitting tourists to drive battery operated electric mini-cars, such as the Renault Twizy, that’s sort of a street-legal golf cart, with a bubble top. Expect to see more of these two-seaters on the roads as motorbike rental companies shift to them.
Another option for more leisurely exploration are bicycles for tours along the path of a railroad that once crossed the island. The paths are off limits to cars and are lined by shady, fragrant trees and flowers. (It’s not a good idea to try to ride bicycles on the busy main roads that have gravel shoulders, though.)
3) How LGBTQ friendly is the island?
The island that’s an overseas territory of Britain seemed so progressive when it legalized same sex marriage in 2017. Then, an election brought in a new party that recognized domestic partnership of all couples, but deleted the right to same-sex marriage.
Facing a LGBTQ boycott of tourism and cruising to Bermuda, the Supreme Court of Bermuda re-legalised same-sex marriage in June, 2018, although the government might still appeal the ruling. (Carnival Corp. has worked with local advocacy group, OUTBermuda to help its legal fight for marriage equality.)
So it’s a little confusing, but Kevin Dallas, the openly gay CEO of the Bermuda Tourism Authority, insists “LGBT visitors are safe and welcome in Bermuda. Bermuda’s tourism industry clearly is committed to inclusivity and treating all visitors with respect.”
4) Where did this dark and stormy come from?
A remarkable fact is that everything you eat or drink on Bermuda comes from away. Almost nothing at all is produced on the island anymore and supplies of everything, from food to fuel depend on imports by ship or air. That may befit an island where a lot of the houses are vacation retreats that are only lived in a few weeks of the year, but it gives a new twist to the 100-mile diet.
Even the makings for Bermuda’s national drink, the dark and stormy, are no longer native to the island. The molasses-based rum that was made by the Gosling’s family since 1860 is now blended and bottled from ingredients distilled on Jamaica, Barbados or Trinidad. And the ginger beer comes from England these days.
5) The sea and land multiplex
On an island so built up, there isn’t a lot of wildlife on land and not even much space to show them, the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo in Hamilton parish serves multi functions.
The main event is the aquarium complex, where you walk along walls made of glass to watch fascinating fish and remarkable sea creatures –from tiger fish to moray eels to sharks amid colorful coral reefs. You can even stick your head into a giant Plexiglas bubble and experience the sensation of diving. Outside, you can walk through habitats of birds, harbor seals and tortoises.
6) Going underground to the Crystal Caves
What’s above is definitely not what’s below on this island. There are places all around Bermuda where streams have eroded limestone and carved created fantastic underground grottoes. None of them are as vast and stunning as the Crystal Caves.
It all started with a cricket ball, we’re told. In 1907, two teens were trying to retrieve a cricket ball that rolled into a hole. As one of the boys crawled deep into a vast cavern studded with stalactites it was clear there was a spectacular world 140 feet underground. Over the years, the former farm became a tourist attraction and today, affable guides lead safe and fascinating expeditions into the vast rooms with eerie pools of clear blue water and icicle-like formations in shimmering colors.
7) New docks; more options
For years, Bermuda was turning away big cruise ships and rationing visits by mid-sized ships in the capital of Hamilton. That’s changed with expansion of alternative places to dock. St. George’s port at the eastern end of Bermuda has seen its narrow cruise channel widened. Some smaller cruise ships turn cruises from Boston or New York into a week-long journey and spend days in both Hamilton and St. Georges.
A big change came with the redevelopment of the Royal Naval Dockyard in Sandy’s Parish at the western end of the island. Kings Wharf and the newly built Heritage Wharf are designed to handle the 4,000-plus passenger ships, like the new Carnival Horizon that docked here on our recent four-day cruise from New York.
The classic nineteenth century British Navy yard with its town of solid stone buildings got a new lease on life when it hosted the America’s Cup yacht races in 2017. Its handsome stone buildings got immaculately cleaned, and a visitor center, shops and restaurants now do a lively business an easy stroll from the cruise dock.
From Carnival Horizon, there was a roster of alternative tours going to beaches, attractions or making a day circuit tours of the island’s highlights. There are many you might not find on your own.
8) Scoping out the rich and famous
The island’s expensive real estate attracts numerous celebrities. Actor Michael Douglas and wife Catherine Zeta-Jones have been regulars on the island because Douglas has family roots in Bermuda. Their estate, a 9,500-square-foot mansion on about three acres of land, has been listed for sale at around $10-million.
But of course just about any home with a piece of property on the island these days goes for multiples of seven digits. A couple of classic resort hotels have become condos, where you can snag a unit for a million or so.
9) The beaches, let’s talk pink
So, is the sand really pink on the pink and green island? Well yes, the beaches really do seem to take on a pink hue once you get your toes into the sand and have a few of sips of a frosty beverage. That’s because a lot of the grains are bits of red and pink-hued coral from the reefs that circle the island.
10) So why visit on a cruise?
With real estate being so pricey and food being imported from so far away, prices on land are high. Arriving on a cruise ship is a great way to enjoy Bermuda’s charms without sticker shock. And the greens, pinks and blues don’t fade from memory as we sail away on our floating island, the Carnival Horizon.
I have been flying to Bermuda each year for a vacation since the nineteen sixties and momentous changes in the Island have occurred as has happened everywhere. The article has omitted to mention that they have a very efficient bus service throughout the Island that not only gets you to various destinations but also can serve as a very good siteseeing modality. There are numerous high quality golf courses for those who indulge in that particular sport. Also, the Bermuda people are exceptionally polite and friendly. I strongly recommend this destination as a beautiful vacation destination. Bermuda is an island that you can visit anytime of year. Golf in the winter, sunning oneself on the beach in the summer, though both can be done at anytime.