It may not be quite as vast as that place in Kensington Gardens across the street—you know, the one where Harry and Meghan and those other royals live. But after a weekend at The Milestone Hotel, I’d be willing to wager a stay here is more comfortable—and a whole lot more fun.
The Milestone’s got many of the opulent trappings of a palace and a vast staff to take care of your every whim, but it comes without any of the stuffiness of the days of Jeeves and Upstairs, Downstairs. From the moment you arrive, you’re encouraged to relax and enjoy its comforts as you would your own home–if you happen to have inherited an enormous heritage home at the most upscale corner of London.
Settling in to splendor
Arriving in London at the end of a recent cruise aboard Seabourn Ovation, we’re met in the lobby by Fran O’Hanlon, one of the hotel’s three butlers, to escort us to The Tudor Suite, aptly named for its intricately leaded windows, ornate ceilings, carved woodwork and draperies by the mile.
The bed posts are leafed in gold. There are lavishly upholstered vintage chairs and settees everywhere, along with a comfortable sofa big enough for four. Stenciled cabinets have enough drawer space for a seasonal stay and there’s a crystal decanter of complimentary sherry on the dresser. The only feature from this century is a big-screen television above the working fireplace.
But there’s more: stepping through a doorway we’re in a sitting room and library that was built as the lady of the house’s private study. She loved music so much she added a choir loft trimmed with puttee cherubs to the room.
Oh, and down this seemingly endless marble lined corridor are separate tub, shower, double sinks and the facilities, with big bottles from luxury toiletry makers Crabtree & Evelyn and Penhaligon’s throughout.
The room looks straight out of Victorian House Beautiful from a century ago, but in fact it’s a blend of bespoke furnishings and antiques selected recently by Red Carnation Collection’s founder and president, Beatrice Tollman, and her daughter Toni for the hotel group’s flagship property.
Centuries of history on one corner
There’s been a house with an interesting story attached on this site since 1698 and residents have included a braggart who claimed to be a grandson of William Shakespeare and another who was a mistress of James II. The current buildings date to the 1880s and in high Victorian fashion, every room is over the top in detail, with sweeping arches and vaulted ceilings. And it doesn’t get more charming than the than the Oratory, the house’s former chapel on the main floor that’s so intimate and romantic that it’s in continual demand for weddings and engagement parties.
A stroll around the neighborhood
We really are at the poshest corner of London, even though the 400-year old iron milepost in front of the hotel proclaims we’re a mile and a half away from the city. A short walk to the right brings you to the Royal Albert Hall and a little further along are the shops of Knightsbridge and Chelsea. To the left is toney Kensington High Street and to the south, museums including the Natural History Museum and Victoria and Albert.
Of course, across the way, a footpath leads through forested Kensington Gardens to the palace, whose apartments and cottages are home to 50 royals and courtiers, including not only Prince Harry and Meghan, but also the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince and Princess Michael of Kent. Stop in if you’d like, but there’s a 25 pound admission, and tours don’t get anywhere near the private apartments.
Goodness, it must be time for tea
So much has been written about afternoon tea at hotels in England that it all begins to sound like a ritual where you’re afraid to take a sip for fear of making a faux pas. It’s time to lighten up and at The Milestone, they do.
The hotel’s Park Lounge grand salon is certainly grand and it features huge paintings of the Victorian upper crust enjoying tennis and such. But the only thing daunting about tea here is deciding which one to choose from. They even pour for you, to demonstrate how to use the tea strainer. There’s no rush, of course, and you might want to start with a flute of Champagne while you peruse the menu of teas that covers four pages and a global choice of styles of brew. You can choose a tasting of more than one if you can’t decide.
I’d advise you to come hungry to tea, though, because we’re not just talking cucumber finger sandwiches. A three-tiered silver serving tray arrives with a meals’ worth of sweets and savories, including the hotel’s delicious but very filling signature Royal Chicken sandwiches, thicker than hockey pucks and rolled in almonds. After the sandwiches , a plate of freshly baked scones arrives with preserves and clotted Devonshire cream. You then top everything off with the selection of chocolates and colorful pastries on the upper levels of the tea tray.
The charge of the cocktail brigade
In the evening, the mood is candle lit. We head first to the Stables Bar for a pick me up. This section of the house with its thoroughbred décor was originally part of the building’s coach house and the bar features a life-sized statue of a jockey in full colors and racing day art. Champagne and vintage sherries are house specialties and if you’d like to see the bubby uncorked with a saber, the bartender will be happy to demonstrate—at an extra fee. There’s also a daunting roster of tipples from the oh-so British Pimm’s Cup to specialty cocktails like the Royal Sunshine, with Grand Marnier, grapefruit juice Champagne and a hint of honey.
Dinner is served
We make our way in to Cheneston’s an Elizabethan spelling of Kensington, and the restaurant is twinkling with candle light illuminating big floral bouquets. A pianist in a niche is adding a little more atmosphere s we get the menu that’s decorated with caricatures of tipsy gents in top hats and tails.
The choices include “updated” versions of classic British and French fare. Starters include such local dishes as Norfolk quail, lobster with Devon crab, and a duo of Irish and Scottish smoked salmon. Mains, of course, include the inevitable carved roast, Suffolk rack of lamb, and a chicken pot pie, but also pastas and wagyu filet.
I chose the house specialty Pot Roast Dover Sole that comes as an entire delectably sauced poached fish that’s deboned at the table, surrounded by vegetables. My verdict: it was the best Dover sole I’ve ever experienced– bar none—but is probably hearty enough to feed two.
Sweet dreams come naturally
And so to bed, but not before drawing a bath with frothy bubbles. It took a while to figure which knobs to twist which ways on the reproduction Victorian faucet, which looks like an ancient telephone, and get the temperature right. And then there was the acrobatic trick of getting into the water. If there’s something I would change about this layout it would be to lower the sides of the tub, which could really be difficult for someone with mobility issues to navigate. In fact, the shower stall seems a long way above the floor as well. Just remember to keep a firm hand on the grab bar.
Curling into bed with its fresh linens and mounds of soft pillows, sleep comes easily, because this is a very quiet residential area. Suddenly it was morning.
A new day begins with breakfast in Cheneston’s, that features a hearty groaning board that’s worthy of Tom Jones. Plenty of smoked Scottish salmon, smoked haddock, and fresh baked goods and fruits. The menu includes Eggs Benedict, waffles, French toast served in enormous portions. It’s a far cry from the toast on silver racks and marmalade and dry cereal we’re told the Queen tends to prefer for breakfast.
I wonder if the royal couples across the way have had as wonderful a weekend. They should really try a stay at The Milestone some time.
